Monday, September 8, 2008

Random Photos


A baby cow


Neptaly holding the ladder while Selvin ties my hammock up


A baby horse and its mom


Keimy turns 11!


Waterfalls in La Campa after a hard rain


Agapito knocking down avocados


Lunch break at school


The road to my neighbors´house


San Manuel de Colohete, another aldea about 12 km up from La Campa


Angie and Milton passing the time


My friend, Mario, and me


Angie turns 9!


Milton swinging from the corn grinder


Izote trees in Nueva Esperanza


My friend, Alan, in La Campa

July 20th - Dia de Lempira

Since it’s been over a year, it means I’m starting to celebrate the same Honduran holidays twice. But this time around when it comes to community events, I won’t be awkwardly standing around feeling out of place. The first Honduran holiday that passed when I first got to Honduras was Día de Lempira, July 20th. But last year, it did just that . . . passed by without any sort of celebration that I heard about. Since my training wasn’t even close to the department of Lempira, nothing exciting really happened. All I remember from that day last year is being in Spanish class and we had to go around and ask people why the day was so special. But this year was a different story. I guess I should have figured that Día de Lempira would be huge in the department of Lempira, but I never would have guessed how big. The whole month was dedicated to the celebration of the “National Identity” of Honduras.

So of course no one came to my English class . . . there weren’t even regular school classes! Everything was cancelled to prepare for or to celebrate Día de Lempira. And of all the months I have been in good health condition, I got hit with dengue fever right before all the celebrations start. Dengue is a sickness caused from a bite from a certain type of mosquito. You basically get body aches, an awful headache that doesn’t go away, flue-like symptoms and a fever. I had a 102 degree fever for three days straight, the three biggest days of celebration. Did this stop me from going to enjoy the events? Absolutely not. Although Ellen kept saying I looked like I was going to pass out.

In La Campa, there was a dance festival where the professors and students performed traditional dances. (They had to cancel school for a few days so the professors could learn the dance, and then a few more days so the professors could teach the kids). Getting to this festival was pretty stressful. I kind of have a crush on one the teachers so I wanted to be there early to make sure I saw him dance. But there is a lot of mud where I live and when it rains, it’s hard for cars to get to the main road. I was on my way on foot when I passed my neighbor, Angela, who wanted to go in car but managed to get the back tires of her husband’s car half way stuck in sand and mud. Angela has been learning on and off how to drive but she still doesn’t know how to go in reverse or in any gear past second. (To get a driver’s license in this country, you just have to pay for it.) I helped her get the car out and then she asked me to get the car to the road where it was drier, about 50 meters away. Well of course when I got the car stuck, she ranted about how I couldn’t drive and then stopped a truck going by so the man could help us get the car out. When he tried to get the car past and got it stuck as well, she yelled at him for not being able to either, the irony of the situation being that she is the only one of us that can’t drive. We finally got the car out and back to her house but not after her yelling at me that I can’t drive and I yelling at her that if I can’t drive then she should just do it on her own and not ask me for favors. I ended up not talking to her for a few days but she sent me tamales and tortillas to show she was sorry so I went over to hang out and then we never talked about it again. And in the end I did get to see the dances, and Nueva Esperanza won the dance festival!

The teachers dancing a traditional dance


The Nueva Esperanza dancers

One of the biggest traditions for Día de Lempira is the “India Bonita” (or “Beautiful Indian”) pageant. There is a pageant in all the communities that have schools. I only went to the pageant in La Campa and in Nueva Esperanza. For the pageant, one girl is elected to represent each class (4th and 6th are one class as well as 3rd and 5th).

In Nueva Esperanza, there are three schools but two of them are 1st-6th grade in one class and so they only had one girl to represent the whole school. These girls then make dresses that best represent what existed during the time of “Lempira”, the Indian who led 30,000 men to fight for freedom.


Lourdes representing Las olominas school

Some girls made dresses made completely out of corn husks or had beans, corn, and other seeds glued on. One girl made the department of Lempira out of these basic grains. Angela’s daughter, Keimy, was elected to represent the 3rd and 5th grade class. Angela had made her a dress gluing beans, squash seeds, and corn to the top with flowers made out of cobs of corn on the back. On the dress, she had someone paint Lempira and decorated the bottom with dried corn husks and miniature clay pots and comals (round dishes used to make tortillas). Keimy then had a small basket full of fruits and vegetables typical of the department of Lempira and of the time. At this point, we were on speaking terms again and so I got to help get Keimy ready for the night. However, dengue was just starting to hit, so I was in bed all day and didn’t get up until around 5 pm so I could help Keimy get ready and to go watch. By the end of the night, I was losing energy.

My friend Roman, dressed as an indio in La Campa, and me


Keimy modeling her dress

At the event, the girls model their dresses and usually judges decide who wins based on the detail of the dresses. However this year, we were unable to get judges and so it was decided by cheers from the crowd. Of course the little one from the kindergarten won because she was the cutest and her family of 14 was there to make extra noise which caused some controversy because her dress was not very “Lempira-like”. I was a little surprised by how angry some people got, especially since they don’t win anything except a sash that they get to pass on to the next “India Bonita” next year. Angela even said she wouldn’t have joined the pageant if she had known it was going to be judged by the audience.

Dress made entirely of ´´tusa´´ corn husks


Nueva Esperanza´s india bonita candidates


Little ´´indio´´

The next day, I still had an awful fever but I had already decided I wanted to go into Gracias to see the events. There was a rodeo and my neighbors invited me to go with them (given we could get the car past the mud). So I hitched a ride with them. In Gracias, there were food booths, dramatizations of the death of Lempira, pageants of the “India Bonita”, dances, rodeos, cock fights, and lots of booths for selling. It was like the February fair all over again but celebrating culture rather than religion.


India bonita candidate in Gracias

La Sensual Elizabeth singing at the rodeo


Rodeo in Gracias

Mariachi singer

A Year In

First off, I just wanna say I’m sorry that it has taken me so long to get a blog entry up. It would be a lie to say that nothing interesting has happened. Sometimes I don’t think I have much to say but once I sit down and begin to write, I find I do have a lot to share. So be expecting several more blog entries after this one! Work has finally picked up and when I do have free time in the evenings, I usually have non-stop drop-by visitors that are making a habit of coming over often. Some of these visitors, of course, are more welcomed than others, but in general it’s nice to have someone to hang out with, talk to, and play guitar with in the evenings. (Although because I still am practically the only 23 year old single girl in a 10 km range and most of the visitors are guys, I’m still wary of how I act and what time they stay til). I find now that very rarely does my Spanish hinder any conversations I have with Hondurans which is nice because it allows my friends to get to know me at a more complex level and vice versa. The other night I talked with my friend, Alan, about “machismo” and how it encourages the objectification of women. We got on this topic when I went to my first rodeo (which I’ll talk about in the next entry) and Alan didn’t understand why I didn’t like watching the singer, “La Sensual Elizabeth” (yes, that’s what she calls herself), who came out in a long coat which a man untied and took off of her to expose a very skimpy outfit to the hoots and howls of all the men.

So, it’s official. . . I have been in Honduras for over a year! I hit one year in-country on July 11th and will be one year in-site at the end of September. So although it’ll be two years next July, the two years of service is counted from when we are in our communities and so I’ll be headed back the states (maybe) at the end of next September. Still so far away, but so much to do before I go! I finally got funding for my improved stoves project and construction will be starting in October. After much frustration and even some tears, I had to drop the NGO that initially promised to financially support this project and I got funding through Peace Corps. Seven months is a long time to wait for, and to pester, an institution so I decided Peace Corps funds might be the best way to go; and I’m a little sad I didn’t do this in the beginning as my project got approved about three days after I submitted all the necessary papers and the check was in my account the next week. There are still a few kinks to work out and it has been over a year since I learned how to build these stoves, so I am definitely a little nervous with how this is going to go down. Plus, this is the first construction project in Nueva Esperanza that requires the manual labor of women. So all I can do is pray that everything goes smoothly and then just take the obstacles as they come when it doesn’t.

In the meantime, I have gradually and inadvertently gotten involved with developing Eco-tourism in La Campa. Besides the HUGE potential La Campa offers for tourism (Colonial church, hikes, beautiful scenery, Lencan pottery, horseback rides to waterfalls . . .) many institutions have already supported La Campa with tourism development as it is the second biggest attraction after the town of Gracias. For example, the tourism institution in Gracias came out and constructed a Museum dedicated to the Lencan pottery in La Campa (. . .which receives about 2 tourists a week . . . in a good week). So I’ve been working to try to attract more attention to the museum and use it as a tourist center. I have met a few tourists in La Campa that come and then have no idea what there is to do or where anything is. I remember when I first arrived to site and was walking around La Campa, I accidentally walked in to the museum and thought it was the municipality! So my short-term goals are as follows:
1) Paint on the side of the museum its hours of operation, prices for entry, and even a sign that it is a museum
2) Make a map of La Campa showing all the accommodations, restaurants, pottery shops, and other points of attraction. (I met one tourist walking around one day who didn’t know there was a restaurant in La Campa, and since there aren’t any stores in La Campa, just figured she wouldn’t eat until the next day when she returned to Gracias. . . not exactly the best impression for someone we want to return with friends)
3) Make pamphlets for two trained tour guides who live in La Campa about the tours they offer and their prices and a pamphlet for the potters who offer demonstrations of making their pottery. All to be available in the museum and in Gracias

As of now, few tourists go to see pottery demonstrations and even fewer ask for a tour guide. But it’s not because the interest is not there. Several tourists come to La Campa and want to see the pottery made but just don’t know where to go. And it’s hard for small villagers to understand that not all tourists are comfortable (language-wise or not) with just asking random locals where to do such things. People here tell me, “Well the tourists just have to ask and we can tell them how to get to the potters’ houses to see demonstrations”. But tourists want it easier. They want one place with all the information on what you can do, how you can do it, and how long it will take to do in La Campa.

As for the pottery itself, I’m still working with the women’s group in Nueva Esperanza and recently got involved with working with a man named Amadeo in La Campa who buys the pottery and sells it elsewhere. Amadeo manages an Agroforestry Cooperative, owns a hotel, and has been mayor for three terms in La Campa. He’s a very motivated individual and very involved with development here. By working with him, I can support all the other potters in the area as he buys from all of them. He also owns a car and so transportation of the pottery is a lot more feasible if we have more people interested outside of La Campa and Gracias.

In addition to this, I was nominated to be a VOS (Volunteers Offering Support) member. I had to go to Tegucigalpa for a few days of training and learning about VOS. Basically it’s like Freshman Peer Mentoring or being an RA in the dorms again. If any volunteers have a problem and need someone to talk to, then they can call me up. After signing the contract to be a VOS member, we had elections for new officers and I am Training Coordinator with another volunteer from my group, Anne Marie (we were in the same Spanish class way back during training). I was a little reluctant to be a part of the leadership because I live so far from Tegucigalpa, but I think it works out well that there are two of us for the job. So next year we are in charge of running the training for the new VOS members and also training Peace Corps staff.

So these are the main things that keep me busy. I’m working on other little projects like making tree nurseries, teaching English, touching up my house, or just helping out where I can. And when I don’t have that much to do, I have the freedom to travel and hang out with other volunteers; maybe go and eat pizza in Santa Rosa de Copan or other foods from the states that I miss. But I really like staying in Nueva Esperanza chatting with my neighbors, hanging out with Ellen, having people over, or going to “pasear” (walk around and see people). I still love visiting my host family and other families and friends that don’t get out as much. But I also always have a pot of coffee ready for anyone that may drop by for a quick visit. Actually, if I don’t see certain people about once a week, they think I am mad at them. So I try to get out as much as I can and I always have my door open when I am home. Talk about pressure to upkeep the social life!


Martir (left) and Selvin (right) putting up the posts for my fence


A snake found right outside my house. We think it´s a python of some sort but are unsure


Martir tightening the barbed wire around the posts


My neighbor, Neptaly, came to help out. Him and Selvin unwinding the barbed wire

Soccer season has also started up and so every weekend there are games in Nueva Esperanza and in the stadium in La Campa. Most communities have their own team, or two like Nueva Esperanza and La Campa which have tons of players. Watching the games makes me miss competitive sports so I may soon find myself on a girls’ team if one is ever formed. The best part about the soccer games is that everyone there has come to just have a good time. The school teachers make up half the team as well as some of the students they taught 6 years before. The referee is the local shop owner and is running around on the field in jeans and a checkered shirt. Sometimes watching the games in the stadium makes me forget that I’m in Peace Corps because when I look around, I feel like I could be at a game in the states, or anywhere. The boys think they’re cool wearing their baseball caps sideways eating “topoillos” (frozen bags of juice) and flirting with the girls who have put on their cutest outfits and are sitting in groups pretending they don’t see the guys, the men are eating chips with a Coca-Cola and moving around greeting one another, and the women are selling “pastelitos” (fried turnovers with potatoes or rice inside) and other homemade snacks while their youngest are running back and forth along the bleachers. No one has to work, all worries are forgotten, and everyone is enjoying the Sunday afternoon, the long-awaited day of rest.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Celaque . . . finally!

For my birthday, my friend Rachel and I went up Celaque, the tallest mountain in Honduras. We did an 8 hour hike (10 hours in total including the trek up to the Visitor’s Center) and reached the second highest peak on Celaque, at 2,300 meters. Because we went a few days after Hurricane Alma hit, it was VERY wet and slippery. I ended up falling twice and we were stumped for about 20 minutes when we had to cross a part of the river that had risen so high we couldn’t find a way across. Here are some photos of the hike.


The start of the trail, the water was soooo high!




Rachel and me


The view at 2,300 meters


Me


Strange plant


Taking a break


Crazy vegetation!


Crossing bridge on the way back


Visitor Center in construction, a wall made form plastic bottles. Yay recycling!


Worker making wall from bottles filled with sand


A large grasshopper on our hotel door

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

The Downside of Rural Community Life


So although there is the upside of safety in rural communities, the downside of not living in the big cities, where more voices can be heard, is that sometimes these communities on the fringes of the most beautiful areas of Honduras are forgotten. Of course, corruption inside and outside of the communities can prevent improvement, but some of the basic needs out here are continuously overlooked until it causes a bigger problem. To get to Nueva Esperanza, you have to cross numerous creeks and rivers. There are bridges to get across the rivers and the creeks are low enough to just pass right on through. However, the last bridge right before Nueva Esperanza has been broken for more than five years. There is a huge hole in the middle which only a motorcycle can (barely) get by. So, all cars and buses have just gone down through the river. Sure the river has gotten high before, but there has never been any problem with getting across. Until now. The first hurricane of the season, Hurricane Alma, hit southern Honduras in the end of May. Here on the outskirts of the storm, we got LOTS and LOTS of rain. The hurricane raised the river so high that it was impossible for cars, or the buses, to cross.


There was no problem when I left Nueva Esperanza the day before, so I had no idea what was going on when I was headed home and the bus suddenly stopped and turned around. The driver announced that we couldn’t get across the river so everyone had to get off and start walking. I’m pretty sure I gave the bus driver the dropped jaw look of shock. I was coming back with my backpack of overnight gear plus three other bags of groceries. . . and we were at the bottom of the hill. Plus, this bus was supposed to go San Sebastian, it was still 18 km away from it’s destination up the mountain! Everyone got off the bus and started walking across the bridge and up the hill, no complaints and no hesitation. I still am amazed by the attitudes of the people here. I think I stayed calm the whole time just because everyone else did; and because everyone else accepted this ordeal as just another challenge to face, I did, too. Although I can’t help but feel a little angry at how unjust it is here as I watch a man unload a 100-pound bag of corn, carry it on his back bent over up the hill, and then re-load it into the other bus that was waiting for us at the top. For people that already have to struggle with so many other things, like just getting enough of life’s necessities, it’s inexcusable that their lives have to be made more difficult with a problem that should have been taken care of immediately. Another woman struggled with her baby in one hand and two full bags of groceries in the other to make the trek up to the other bus. I wish I could have helped her with the load but I had no free hand to offer myself. We loaded the new bus which didn’t have the overhead compartments like the other one and so all of the bags and boxes of things were either compacted with the owners in the seats or stacked in the aisle. The whole time, I don’t remember hearing a single complaint. . . which may be why nothing has been done to fix the bridge. (The short-term solution now is putting boards across the bridge so cars can pass. . . I prefer walking the 3 hours to town than risk falling into the river). Maybe we’ll get someone’s attention now.

The Upside of Rural Community Life

I remember a story my friend, Ana, (who is from El Salvador but now lives in Washington State) told me when we worked together at my university. She told me that what she misses most from where she comes from is that if you are going through hard times, your neighbor is going through hard times, too; and so you worked together or suffered together. But in the neighborhood where she is now, your problems are your own and you have to deal with them yourself even though there are people who are so close by who could help.

I know I have already talked about how wonderful it is to be a part of a small community where you are always welcomed into a home and stop to greet everyone you walk by. But one other benefit that comes from living in a small community, I learned about this last week, is safety. A couple of weeks ago, a woman named Graciela and her husband moved into a house near me because Graciela wanted to be closer to her son and daughter, two well-respected people who live in Nueva Esperanza. One day though, the man went and threatened Graciela’s daughter with a knife because she came from another father. With that, the community united in a way that I wish I could see happen in the states. There’s a select group that is dedicated to the security of the community and when they heard of the event and heard that the man was still in Nueva Esperanza at a pulperia (small store from a house), they called the alert. A bunch of phone calls were made not only to the group but to anyone in the community that might be around the area. The pulperia just happens to be right next to my house so I was coming home and stopped to greet four men waiting in the road in front of the pulperia. One of the men was the brother of the woman that was threatened and I thought he was kidding when he told me they were there to detain the man that threatened his sister. No machetes or other weapons were on hand, just the power of numbers. One by one, men came from all directions, some that were called and some that were just passing by and stayed for the support. The four turned into 30 or more who all just stood and watched the offender, making sure he didn’t disappear before the police came to take him away.



My neighbors came out of their house to watch and one of them told me, “Look, Courtney, you’re seeing what happens when someone brings problems to the community.” And then he joked, “But if this guy pulls out a machete, they’ll all scatter.” I guess this happened again the next day when the man was released the next morning from jail and came back to his house. The people united again and pressured him to leave and go back to where he came from. Since then, he hasn’t been heard of since. Peace restored! In these rural areas, anything that threatens the well-being and safety of the community is thought of as everyone’s business and everyone unites to take care of the problem. So for the woman who was threatened, instead of having to stay in her house everyday trying to avoid this man who had no good motive to threaten her, her fear and troubles were divided among the community and together the problem was taken care of immediately. In the states, I think sometimes we try to keep too many of our worries and problems to ourselves or forget to care about other people’s troubles. But here, my house was literally in the middle of this whole ordeal. The man lived 100 meters from me and threatened the woman two houses down on the other side of my house. But I never felt nervous for my own safety because I knew the community was always watching out for one another and wouldn’t let anything else happen. Not to sound naïve and not that I’m going to completely let my guard down, but I truthfully don’t think I have ever been safer.

In my house!

I finally moved back to Nueva Esperanza! Well, I have to admit that I have been living in my house for almost two months; (I moved April 15) but actually making the house feel like home has taken a lot longer than just the move. In fact, there is still a lot of work to be done before I can finally call it home. But, I am proud to say that by the end of all the construction, I will almost be a professional house-builder!

For those of you who don’t know, it is required for me to live in Nueva Esperanza. Unfortunately, when it was time for me to move out of my host family’s house, there were no housing options for me. So, I had to move to La Campa, the next town over, at the beginning of 2008 and kept waiting for options to open up in Nueva Esperanza. Finally, a woman who lives in La Campa offered to finish a house she has in Nueva Esperanza for me so I could move in there. At the time, I had a few options that I was waiting on but after they all fell through, I told her that would be great. A few days during the construction of my house, I went to help out. Who would have thought that my pre-service training would have come so in handy! I was hauling bricks, mixing cement, laying gravel, and even helped dig out my latrine hole and build the wall to my bathroom! I talked to a Peace Corps volunteer in Panama once who told me he had to build his own house because there was no housing in his community and I remember saying, “Wow I can’t believe you had to BUILD your own house! There is no way I would have done that.” Little did I know . . .

Moving Day was an adventure in itself. To give you an idea of what it was like, think about moving away from home to college. You have packed all of your belongings for the next two years as well as any furniture (bed, shelf, . . .) or appliances (stove) you need because there is absolutely nothing provided for you. Then, imagine having to get all of that stuff to your house without a car and on no paved roads. Okay, so I didn’t exactly throw my bed on my back and hike to my house. Thanks to an ex-pat who lives in La Campa, I was able to transport my things in the back of his pick-up. However, my house was not exactly ready to be moved into when I did. My landlord had promised me that everything would be ready for me to move in mid-March. . . then the end of March . . . then the beginning of April . . . then April 15th at the latest. . . So, I packed all my belongings and then was living out of my boxes for the next month waiting for the house to be ready. I finally just couldn’t wait any longer. I declared, rain or shine, that I was going to move April 15th. When I made the move, the house at that point had running water and electricity but was still missing light bulbs (so much for the electricity), a finished floor, door handles, and window and door locks. My landlord had promised me that the guy who was to put the locks on my doors was coming the next day. So I used long pieces of wood to jam the doors shut so they wouldn’t open in the middle of the night. However, he didn’t come the next day. In fact, my landlord admitted to me that she hadn’t even bought the locks yet. It was around that point that I decided I better help get the ball rolling. I don’t have the knowledge of how to install door locks (the ones that have a key), but I did put on the door handles and other small locks that you can lock from the inside. So when I was inside the house, I could secure everything. But if I had to go anywhere, I had to leave a door open so I could get back in. Finally, a week later, the guy FINALLY came to do the installation and I had some other people help me install the light sockets and light bulbs.

Gradually, though, improvements have been made inside and out. A lot of people have really helped me out from lending me a table to helping build a moat around my house. The rains have started coming and sometimes there’s so much water during some storms that it enters under my door and through my windows, thus the need of the moat. Although that sounds pretty terrible, it doesn’t really mean anything when you have a cement floor. In fact, if anything, it has made me a tidier person because I have to make sure not to leave anything on the ground that can’t get wet. Water drips through the ceiling, too, so I can’t leave anything on the table either.

It’s definitely nice being back in Nueva Esperanza and closer to the people I first developed relations with. When I’m lonely or bored, I have great neighbors that I can go drink coffee and eat mangoes with. In La Campa, I really only slept there and spent the rest of my time in Nueva Esperanza and so didn’t really get to know anyone else except my landlord’s family. And the best part about living in my house is that I am so much more accessible. People can now come and visit me or talk to me about work without having to walk far away or enter someone else’s house. I can finally host people and start to pay back all the free cups of coffee and meals I have received! I have had a few people over for a US “plato tipico” which is a lot of fun and one time when I cancelled my English class, some of my students still came over to hang out. A few days ago, we had an English class dinner at my place which even a little rain inside couldn’t damper the night.


Main room before


After


Edwin working on my room


End result


The biggest change was taking out this door and putting in a bathroom.


Bathroom after


Before


After


Some kids from my English class doing a ¨dinamica¨


Me!